Cathal Barry
Every year thousands of people undertake a three-day-long pilgrimage to Lough Derg, each with their own intentions. In the first of a two-part special, The Irish Catholic reports on St Patrick’s Purgatory. Cathal Barry recounts his pilgrimage to St Patrick’s Purgatory
The story of St Patrick’s Purgatory is the stuff of legend. More commonly known as Lough Derg, St Patrick’s Purgatory is a site of pilgrimage on Station Island in Co. Donegal.
The tradition is that St Patrick spent time on the island in the year 445. Soon after, St Davog, a local abbot, was put in charge of the island and pilgrims began to travel.
More than 1,500 years later, pilgrims continue the tradition of taking time out from their busy lives to spend some time in prayer and penance in the sacred place.
I was one such pilgrim to the holy island just last week, along with The Irish Catholic’s editor Michael Kelly.
In all honesty, I was apprehensive at first. I had heard stories of sleep deprivation and starvation, not to mention sore feet! But I blocked all those out as we set sail from the mainland just north of the town of Pettigo across to Station Island.
When it comes to penance, it seems there’s no time like the present so we got stuck in straight away. We removed our shoes and got to work.
Weather conditions were mild at the time, but acting on advice from one seasoned pilgrim, we endeavoured to get the first three required ‘stations’ done quickly before any downpours. A priest later remarked to Michael that the forecast was “dry with showers”. Only in Ireland!
Our first ‘station’ took a while as it takes some time to get into the rhythm of it. A ‘station’ refers to the combination of prayers and movements which make up the Station Prayer.
Emphasis
These prayers can be more than thoughts and words, they could be called body prayers. The emphasis is on kneeling and walking while reciting very basic prayers such as the Our Father, Hail Mary and Creed. The prayers soon become repetitive mantras for pilgrims which of course are part of every great spiritual tradition.
After kneeling in prayer at St Patrick’s and St Brigid’s crosses and circling the basilica reciting several decades of the rosary you eventually move on to the ‘beds’.
Deceptively named, Lough Derg’s ‘penitential beds’ resemble nothing of the sort you’d see in one of Mattress Mick’s quirky advertisements. Instead, these are the rough remnants of the old beehive ‘prayer’ cells used by the monastic community as far back as the 9th Century. They are the oldest remaining structure on the island and form the central part of the prayer programme.
Navigating your way barefoot around the jagged rocks is tricky business but young and old alike somehow emerge on the other side unscathed.
Arriving then at the lapping waters’ edge is a poignant moment. There, pilgrims stand reciting the prescribed prayers before kneeling and repeating the same.
For some, blessing yourself with the water from the lake brings to mind Christ’s baptism in the River Jordan and indeed their own. Others simply breathe a sigh of relief that yet another gruelling station is near complete.
A final few prayers are said at St Patrick’s cross before arriving back where you began, at St Patrick’s Basilica, to recite the powerful Psalm 16 for the Pope’s intentions.
The opening words of the Psalm (“keep me safe, my God, for in you I take refuge”) took on a whole new meaning for us pilgrims as we journeyed together throughout the night.
The entire Station Prayer takes about an hour from beginning to end, and pilgrims generally complete three before Mass that evening.
Michael and I made it through just in the nick of time, unfortunately not managing to avoid one of the aforementioned showers which soaked us to the bone. Still, despite the stormy conditions, we remained upbeat with the help of friendly fellow pilgrims ahead of the imminent 24-hour vigil.
After Mass there was night prayer and benediction. For those of us about to embark on our vigil through the night, it was a moment of peaceful reflection on what was about to ensue.
For those who were at the finish line, it was a moment of great joy as they told tales of feeling unburdened and at peace.
Such feelings seemed a long way off for us yet, but any trepidation we felt was quickly soothed by a particularly moving Taize chant. “In our darkness there is no darkness with you O Lord, the deepest night is clear as the daylight.”
As the light began to dim and we settled into our first of four night stations, mimicking inside the basilica our earlier movements on the penitential beds, I remembered those words and was comforted.
Looking back at it now, the night was all a bit of a blur. The fact that it was cold and wet may have been a curse at the time, but in hindsight it distracted us from our hunger and tiredness. The vocal prayers and mirrored movements aided in passing the time too of course, but more often than not it was the encouragement offered from fellow pilgrims that provided the impulse to carry on.
At various stages throughout the night, I was struck by the touching stories of many pilgrims. Some were there out of religious devotion, while others were praying for special intentions. More impressive still was the humility of those who had simply come in thanksgiving for the graces that God had afforded them in life.
After Mass that morning is perhaps the most powerful part of the pilgrimage to St Patrick’s Purgatory. The Sacrament of Reconciliation is an opportunity for pilgrims to unburden their hearts and souls after laying everything bare in their minds the previous night.
One would expect to feel anything but fresh after a day of fasting and no sleep but quite the opposite is true. I can attest to the immense sense of clarity and understanding that pilgrims report after a night spent in prayer.
The renewal of baptismal vows, Stations of the Cross, Mass and night prayer that follow before finally falling into bed seem a doddle after the hardships of the previous night and day. You then awaken on the third day revitalised, refreshed and renewed – a real resurrection moment – ready to undertake your final station before the journey home.
The boat ride back to the mainland was actually quite emotional. I felt a great sense of fulfilment and achievement upon completing such a challenging pilgrimage. There was also something very touching about our last rendition of Hail Glorious Saint Patrick – even the eastern European boatman joined in.
As pilgrims departed the boat at the shores edge and went off in cars and busses in various different directions, I was reminded of just how special Lough Derg as a site of pilgrimage really is.
St Patrick’s Purgatory is a centre of Christian spirituality in Ireland. So much so that people travel the length and breadth of the country to spend some time on the island and experience a sense of the clarity and closeness to God that can only be felt in that sacred space.
To borrow a line from the Northern Ireland Tourism Board: “You’ll never know unless you go.”
A truly ‘powerful’ pilgrimage for all
Prior Fr Owen McEneaney tells Cathal Barryand Michael Kelly about the ‘healing grace’ pilgrims’ experience at Lough Derg
Lough Derg, the sacred Sanctuary of St Patrick, is very much a living part of Irish Christian heritage.
As such, Prior Fr Owen McEneaney believes the ancient pilgrimage site is uniquely placed to support the renewal of the Church in Ireland.
“I see Lough Derg as being at the service of the Irish Church. I think it is very well positioned to actually support the Irish Church in rediscovering the mercy of God which is at the heart of the Gospel message,” Fr McEneaney told The Irish Catholic.
The former Monaghan Cathedral administrator, who became Prior of Lough Derg in 2013, is convinced that the opportunity for people to authentically reengage with their faith is a major factor in most pilgrims decision to undertake the challenge.
“People come for all kinds of reasons but I’m beginning to feel that the common denominator among pilgrims is a desire to rekindle their relationship with God.
“People of course come for a range of personal reasons too, but when you strip that back a bit I think there is a common denominator there,” he said.
Fr McEneaney also feels the peace and tranquillity of the island is major pull for pilgrims.
“In today’s fast-moving world, many people don’t get an opportunity to pull away from the fast lane for a few days like they do in Lough Derg,” adding that while some pilgrims are “a bit taken aback” when asked to set their mobile phones aside, they eventually “appreciate that they can live without it”.
Experience
The Lough Derg experience, according to the prior, is also very non-invasive. It’s a place where pilgrims can “come as they are”.
“We have a number of pilgrims who are not regular Church goers but to whom the Faith is still important. They feel that there is something about Lough Derg, where they can come on their own terms, without feeling judged and be part of the community of faith,” he said.
Dismissing any notion that the pilgrimage to Lough Derg is ‘out-dated’, Fr McEneaney said “a lot of young people come to the island, remove their shoes and socks and engage like everyone else”.
“They are telling us that it is a very ‘earthing’ experience, that it’s connecting them with the universe. So many people today are conscious of the environment and this experience really puts them directly in touch with that. At that level then it engages them with the creator God and if they are people of the Christian faith it also connects them with Christ,” the prior said.
“Some people might say that the pilgrimage is outdated but that’s not how we find people experience it.
“They might find it initially strange but it has that centring effect and then they see the value of it. Anyone who may have had question marks upon arrival generally quickly realise this is a very rich experience,” he added.
Fr McEneaney also spoke of the “powerful” experience pilgrims and priests alike encounter during Confession which the prior believes is “absolutely central” to the pilgrimage.
“Priests are all in agreement that there is hardly anywhere else where the sacrament is so powerful,” he said.
Despite “journeying through the night”, Fr McEneaney insists that pilgrims “are very in touch” with themselves.
“You would often think that being up all night they will not be able for this but the exact opposite is true. People are very in tune, very aware of where they are and where they would like to be and may be looking for some help or advice in the context of the sacrament. People unburden themselves by airing something and setting it aside. It’s particularly powerful,” he said, adding that the “healing grace of the sacrament continues throughout the pilgrimage”.
Aside from the Sacrament of Reconciliation, the pilgrims’ departure on the third day offers another key insight into their experience on the island.
“People often thank me for a great experience,” Fr McEneaney said. “You can tell they really mean it and I’m convinced it’s not just because they have endured it. It’s much richer than that,” he said.
“When you leave the island, no matter how tired or hungry you are you feel elated. You forget all the hardships and it’s a really great feeling.”
Pilgrim voices
Caroline Martin, Drumholm, Co. Donegal.
“If anything ever goes wrong in your life its lovely to be able to go to Lough Derg to spend time in prayer. Generally afterwards I find that all I have prayed for works out, and then I have to come back to give thanks.
“It’s a time out from life. Everything stops once you reach the island. You have no mobile phone and you are stripped bare of everything we have grown used to in our daily lives. That allows you to stop and take stock of your life. To complete the pilgrimage is one of the most fantastic feelings ever.”
Michael Doyle, Pennyburn, Co. Derry
“I started coming to Lough Derg in 1985 and after doing it a couple of times I didn’t want to break the sequence. I’ve been doing it every year since. The way I look at it is that there are 365 days in the year and if I can’t give three of them back to God, it’s a poor return.
“I think it has done a lot of good in my life. It’s given me great stability. I’ve been very fortunate in my life and I put a lot of it down to Lough Derg to be honest. I think it’s only right that I do come every year and thank God for another year that has gone well for me.”
Una Quinn, Donegal Town, Co. Donegal
“There is a real camaraderie between everyone on the island. Everybody is in the same boat. It can be very difficult at times when you are tired, hungry and cold but the other pilgrims pull you through. Everyone you meet is lovely here. It’s great to meet people and hear their stores. The bigger the group, the better.”
Eithne O’Sullivan, Portmarnock, Co. Dublin
“A pilgrimage to Lough Derg is a faith strengthening experience. It offers you time to think and reflect away from everything going on in the outside world.
“Everybody you meet becomes a companion here, they are always so friendly. It’s nice to hear their stories, where they come from and why they have come. I say every year that this will be my last, but something keeps me coming back. It’s a difficult pilgrimage without any luxuries, but it’s a great one.”
